Guillochage

Hand-engine-turned engraving for watch dials, by René von Kaenel.

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Guillochage art

Guillochage consists of engraving hollow lines and intersecting them to decorate jewels, dials and watches. It is an old profession of the watch industry — only a few guillocheurs remain to carry out this very specific work. If engraving is fairly well known, guillochage is not.

To “guilloche” means to decorate objects with engraved lines, crossed to produce an artistic pattern. Two types of machines are used depending on whether the artist wants straight or curved lines. In the first case, the artist sits before a machine called a “straight line”; in the second, they operate the guillochage lathe — turning a crank with the left hand while the right hand guides a mobile carriage fitted with a graver that engraves gold, platinum or brass.

The infinite variety of patterns comes from how an artist chooses to intersect straight lines and curves, complete or partial. The resulting grooves are only 3 to 4 hundredths of a millimeter deep — less than the thickness of a hair — requiring two essential instruments: glasses and a loupe.

Historically, guillochage has decorated mirrors, snuffboxes and cases, but this workshop focuses on watches: the dial, the case back, and even the movement can all be guilloched. Each piece is made one at a time, by hand — an art of the watch industry addressed to connoisseurs of fine jewelry. Its clients include some of the most famous names in watchmaking.

It is with a certain pride that we present these photographs.

If you are interested, or have questions, send an email.

René von Kaenel

See all the workshop photos